Bondage Rope 101 – 12 Useful Tips and Extensive Rope Rundown

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If you’re interested in trying rope bondage, there are plenty of things you’ll need to learn beforehand – things like anatomy, knots, and safety, etc.

Another very important one…

The actual rope – because there’s way more to buying and collecting cords than just going to your local hardware store grabbing whatever is the cheapest.

IMPORTANT TIPS BEFORE YOU START

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• WATCH THE PRICE – Sex shops tend to overprice their products. Try a hardware store or other places to find what you need.

• WATCH THE TOOTH – Tooth is the rope’s “drag” or friction and therefore how well your knots, twists, and loops will hold together.

• WATCH THE DIAMETER – It’s best to work with something 5mm or thicker. Thinner rope should be avoided for safety reasons (excess pressure can lead to discomfort, circulation problems, bruising, or worse). ALSO, some robe fibers (like cotton) might stretch and lose their diameter, which could cause problems.

• MIND THE BRAIDING – Braids are how the rope is woven together. Various densities will affect how tight your knots get and how easy or difficult it will be to take them apart. The same goes for twisting.

• BRANDS MEAN NOTHING – Take the same kind of rope from different makers and they will be different, so keep that in mind while you’re shopping.

• KNOW YOUR NEEDS – There’s a big difference between tying someone up for light bedroom fun vs. going into a full-blown, load-bearing suspension rig. Also, wanting a visually pleasing result vs. a functional one will change what rope you’ll need.

• CUT IT UP – If you buy a long section, you’ll have to cut it into manageable lengths – how long depends on your preferences.

• BREAK IT IN – Stiff ropes are like shoes, you have to break them in before they become easier to work with. This also goes for natural fibers that might need boiling, waxing or oiling (or just plain washing because it’s raw and smells).

• KEEP AT UPKEEP – Certain ropes have a longer lifespan, but it doesn’t last forever. Trim stray fibers, keep it stored in a bag, wash it when necessary (read washing instructions at the end of the article).

• WHIP IT GOOD – Whip your ends. This means fixing the ends so they don’t fray or unfurl.

• WATCH FOR ALLERGIES – Natural fibers come with the risk of an allergic reaction to some people Synthetic obviously doesn’t have this problem.

• NO RIGHT OR WRONG – All riggers (and even rope bunnies) have their own preferences. As long as it’s safe, don’t let anyone convince you there’s only “one correct choice”.

WHAT TYPES OF ROPE ARE THERE?

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They break down into two categories – Natural and Synthetic. And each one comes with its own pros and cons. Let’s start with natural…

 HEMP 

Commonly used for Shibari very traditional fantastic tooth natural look varied diameter range not as stretchy Lots of colors

Sheds fibers Expensive, raw or treated Washing affects durability Scratchier against the skin  Possible allergy Needs a lot of work to break in

  JUTE

Traditional for Shibari   Can be dyed Easy to unknot excellent tooth Use improves the quality Natural smell

More expensive Washing or boiling degrades fibers Slower to tie with because of tooth Need more time to break-in Needs care and inspection

 COTTON

Can be dyed in different colors Strong but soft on the skin Acceptable tooth Lightweight No allergies Slight elasticity Lower chance of rope burns

Not good for beginners Needs working in after washing Knots get very tight/compact Easy to get dirty Can stretch over time

  LINEN/FLAX

Good tooth Easier to tie Soft but will still leave marks Flexible, moderate durability Good strength Don’t need to work it in Less to no allergies

Expensive Harder to clean

  SILK

Flexible and soft moderate friction low stretch okay durability good tooth despite more similar to cotton

Quite expensive (luxury choice of rope)

 BAMBOO

Flexible and soft Moderate friction Low stretch Okay durability Less grip than silk Shine of nylon Anti-bacterial properties

In the luxury range so it will be expensive

  MANILA, SISAL, COIR

(abaca plant, agave fibers, coconut husks)

Cheaper Harsh tooth (pro OR con) Leaves better “rope marks”

Uncomfortable Less stable (especially coir) Not strong enough for suspension Expensive Not as easy to clean Limited diameters

Next, let’s see what synthetic options are out there …

 NYLON, POLYESTER, PARACORD

Heavy duty  Durable Cheaper Easy to find Smooth and soft Easy to clean No allergies

Bad tooth Compact knots Slippery More rope burns Stiff compared to other ropes Not “traditional”

 SYNTHETIC HEMP/HEMPEX

Cheaper Less prep or working in No allergies Easier to keep clean Good tooth Knots don’t get very compact Acceptable for suspension

Not as many diameters No color options Sheds quite a bit

 MFP Multifilament Polypropylene

Low friction Lots of colors Decently strong Soft and smooth Found in all hardware stores No allergies

Poor tooth Not good for suspension More rope burns

KEEPING YOUR ROPE CLEAN

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For natural fibers, washing can degrade the quality and durability of the rope.

BUT, it’s going to get covered in all sorts of bodily fluids (sweat at minimum) or things like dust, dirt, or wax (if you’re into wax play), so you’ll have to wash it.

• Here’s a great guide to caring for your rope Twisted Monk.

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This is not a be-all-end-all guide to rope bondage. I high recommend scouring the internet for as many articles as possible. And, if you want to get serious, find a qualified teacher to show you how to enjoy this art form while staying safe.

Here are some sites that have more useful information:

• Crash Restraint – Rope detail chart 
• Instructables – Rope dying guide and whipping instructions

Also, if you liked this article, you might enjoy these:

• BDSM Restraints 101 – Hogtied and Happy for Beginners
• What is Japanese Bondage – The History, Culture, and Cautions of Shibari 
• Cheap BDSM Equipment – Using Hardware, Dollar, and Thrift Stores

Anything you want to add? Share in the comments